HANGING BASKET PLANTS, BOUGAINVILLEA
IN HANGING BASKETS
We love Bougainvillea in hanging baskets – its bright colors really
create a show. The article below has some great pointers and useful tips
on growing Bougainvillea as well as pointer on growing
Bougainvillea in hanging baskets or in a hanging planter.
MyHangingBaskets.com shares helpful information and articles like
this to encourage gardening success. If you pass this along please
acknowledge the author Gary Gragg.
Nothing
provides more intense masses of color in our landscape than the
billowing, sometimes house-covering festive blossoms of bougainvillea.
But I know what you're thinking. "Gary Gragg is an idiot. I've
suckered myself into planting bougainvillea countless times only for it
to shrivel up come first frost." OK, you have a good point, but I'll
teach you how to make this plant thrive. There are more than 300
cultivars of bougainvillea, but five do best in Northern California.
Usually nothing's better than the original, and that's true with
bougainvillea. Bougainvillea
The original discovery of Bougainvillea spectabilis, often known as
B. brasilensis, remains the most vigorous, easy to grow and most
cold-hardy of all varieties available. It is not damaged when
temperatures dip into the 20s and can recover vigorously when they drop
a few degrees more. In addition to its floriferous purple flower
bracts, it boasts the most verdantly green and dense foliage of all the
bougainvilleas.
Many
other varieties are sparse when out of bloom, but spectabilis remains
cloaked in lustrously thick foliage year round unless, of course, we are
visited by a nasty freeze.
The second most cold-hardy is San Diego Red, which offers deep red
blooms set against dark green foliage. This variety looks exceptional
draping white stucco walls and edging the traditional red tiles of
Spanish architecture. The performance of this plant, however, is much
less consistent than B. spectabilis.
You'll often see a row of them lined up along a wall or fence growing
under the same conditions, only to see that while one might be blooming
nicely with handsome foliage, the next will have only leaves, the third
will have nothing but blooms and the fourth will barely be alive.
The
dark rose-colored Barbara Karst cultivar seems to consistently
outperform San Diego Red and is equally cold-hardy. Barbara Karst is
also a tamer grower than B. spectabilis, seeming less determined to
swallow your home. A large-blossomed, straight pink variety sometimes
sold as Miami Pink has been showing itself off locally to great effect.
I found one in Oakland in full bloom on a rainy day, forming a gorgeous
arch over an entry to a television repair shop.
Bougainvilleas in Hanging Baskets and
Hanging Planters
Although aggressively growing bougainvilleas can, with considerable
effort, be trained into small trees, shrubs or ground covers, if it's a
hanging basket or hanging planter you want, go with Raspberry Ice.
Raspberry Ice sports variegated foliage and magenta flowers and has a
weeping habit ideal for ground covers and hanging baskets.
Many
other varieties may grow well locally, but these five are the go-to
stalwarts that will have the highest chance of success. Although all
will withstand varying degrees of frost without damage, all will survive
substantially colder temperatures once they are mature.
So the trick to making these plants permanent features in your garden is
either to plant them in frost-free locations adjacent to our moderate
San Francisco Bay or to grow them in protected microclimates within
colder inland gardens. In either case, young, freshly installed plants
should be protected from freezing conditions. Once established, a freeze
will desiccate foliage and kill young stems back to thicker wood, but
should not kill the plant. A frost every few years can be a blessing
because it forces you to trim the dead foliage back, preventing the
plant from getting too out-of-control. And because bougainvillea blooms
only on new growth, the pruning will encourage fresh new blooms. Before
you hack it back in spring, however, wait until all possibility of frost
is past. The new bud growth will reveal how far back the plant froze and
consequently, how far back it must be trimmed. PLANTING YOUR
BOUGAINVILLEA HANGING BASKET
The other trick to bougainvillea is to leave the roots alone.
Bougainvillea's root system is extremely fragile and doesn't form a
tight root ball. Don't expect established plants to survive
transplanting. Young nursery plants should be pot-planted rather than
pulled from their container. This is done by cutting the bottom off the
container, then making cuts in the pot from just below the rim down to
its base. Carefully place the plant in the ground and pull the pot up
and out of the way. Then cautiously backfill and water in.
CARING FOR YOUR BOUGAINVILLEA HANGING BASKET / HANGING
PLANTER
Your hanging basket or planter of Bougainvillea should receive at
least six hours a day of direct or brightly diffused sunlight. Although
the plant will grow in semi-shade, the bloom's intensity is in direct
correlation to how much sun it receives -- more sun equals more bloom
Bougainvilleas roots should be kept moist but not saturated – so hanging
baskets and hanging planters are ideal for them. The literature also
says to fertilize regularly, but my experience as an abusive parent to
many more plants than any one person should be legally allowed to have
is that it will thrive without a drop of fertilizer even in poor soil.
Adding fertilizer during establishment may be beneficial, though, as it
likely would accelerate growth getting the plant to a mature stage
faster and thus making it more resistant to frost and drought. However
once it is established, give your plant tough love and refuse it both
water and fertilizer until it protests loudly, if ever. Bougainvillea
obviously works well as a vine that can be trained up any vertical
surface, but it will need support when young. It can climb on and
embellish tall wall faces, arbors, otherwise naked palm tree trunks,
fences, or even on utility poles. It can drape over walls and down steep
slopes and hang from baskets. My favorite, however, is to train it into
an entry arch using good old-fashioned rebar as its support. Take two
pieces of half-inch rebar and tie or wire them together. Carefully bend
into an arch and stick both ends securely in the ground. Plant a couple
of 5-gallon bougainvillea on either side, and for less than a hundred
bucks, you've got yourself a design feature worthy of a national
magazine. And as we're talking money, let's talk simple color
economics. When mature, an average bougainvillea can cover a very large
area. In a 400-square-foot area arbor, every square inch will be covered
in intense color during the season and will return year after year.
That's cheap color. Article by Gary Gragg - host of HGTV's "Superscapes"
and owner of Golden Gate Palms and Exotics in Point Richmond
More on Bougainvillea in Hanging Baskets
Garden Squirrel’s Notes - great article by Gregg and some useful
tips. For Bougainvillea Baskets giving you that Extreme Patio Drama
you may be looking for in addition to the Raspberry Ice variety as
recommended by Gregg, we also recommend considering Pink Pearl, Miami
pink, Barbara Karst, Elisabeth Angus, James Walker or Violet. For more
on growing Bougainvillea in a Hanging Basket
or hanging planter click here
MORE HANGING BASKET PLANTS
|
PLANT |
LIGHT |
WATER |
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS |
|
Tuberous Begonia |
part shade |
keep moist |
|
|
Wax Begonia |
part shade-shade |
Let dry slightly between waterings |
|
|
Brachycome
"Swan River" Daisy |
full sun-part sun |
dry soil to touch |
prefers cool weather |
|
Coleus |
shade-part shade |
moist soil |
leaves will discolor if exposed to excessive sun |
|
Dusty Miller |
sun-part shade |
let dry slightly between waterings |
|
|
Evolvulus |
full sun |
let dry slightly between waterings |
|
|
Fuchsia
see also. . .
|
filtered sun |
keep moist |
Needs a protected area away from strong wind. Prefers cool
weather |
|
Geranium |
sun-part sun |
let dry slightly between waterings |
Deadhead spent flowers, fertilize every two weeks with water
soluable fertilizer |
|
Ivy Geranium |
partial sun |
see Geranium |
see Geranium |
|
Heliotrope |
partial sun |
moist soil |
Cutting back promotes new flowers |
|
Impatiens |
part shade-shade |
moist soil |
|
|
New Guinea Impatiens |
partial sun |
moist soil. In hot, dry conditions, water generously daily |
|
|
Lantana |
sun |
let dry slightly between waterings |
Fertilize heavy. Cut back to promote new growth and flowers |
|
Lobelia |
Sun to shade |
moist soil |
Prefers cool weather |
|
Pansies |
Sun to shade |
moist soil |
Prefers cool weather |
|
Petunia |
Full sun |
Let dry between
waterings |
|
|
Portulaca |
full sun |
prefers dry soil |
|
|
Scaevola |
sun-part sun |
let dry slightly between waterings |
|
|
Strawflowers |
sun-part sun |
let dry slightly between waterings |
|
|